Youtube beadboard installation

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Our Company. Contact Information. Our Guarantee. Our Story. Texas Showroom. Newsletter Archives. October - Beadboard on Cabinets. May - Customer Spotlight: Victorian. November - Small Porches We knew we wouldn't need beadboard where the door and window are, so 20' of beadboard ended up being plenty. Cutting a wall into thirds rather than in half tends to be more pleasing to the eye. Yay math! Before we could just start installing the wainscoting, we had to think about our trim situation.

You may have the exact baseboards and trim you want already. If that's the case, you have it easy and can skip this step! Unfortunately, our house came with really cheap looking trim work. So we have been replacing the baseboards and trim around the windows and doors room by room as we work on our house.

Our windows only have a small ledge, with no trim around the rest of the window. And with the style of baseboards that the builders put in, our beadboard paneling would stick out over the edge and look odd. We love chunky craftsman style trim because it gives our cookie cutter house so much more character, so we ripped out all of the trim we didn't like You can see the tutorial for installing craftsman style trim here.

Because we had the guys at Home Depot rip down our beadboard panels to the correct size, some of them could just be placed on top of the new baseboards and attached to the wall! We first used a stud finder and marked all available studs. Fortunately, with most sections of the beadboard we were able to anchor the piece to the studs.

We pre-drilled a small pilot hole with a cordless drill and then attached the beadboard to the wall with GRK brand trim screws. The screws have a small head that makes the hole easier to fill. For sections where no stud was available, we attached the beadboard with liquid nails and 18 gauge brads into the drywall. As nice as it was not to have to cut down the height of the wainscoting ourselves, we didn't totally get out of having to make cuts. Sometimes the amount of wall we needed to fill required only a partial beadboard panel, so we had to cut it down.

Sometimes we needed to work around the plumbing, so we created an extra cutout for that And underneath the window, we obviously needed a shorter piece of wainscoting than we were using on the full walls. When cutting the beadboard to fit around obstructions, it's important to carefully measure.

Once we were sure of our measurements, we marked the cutouts on the beadboard with a pencil. We then used our Fein Multimaster flush cut tool to make the various cutouts.

In some places, we needed to rip down one of our sheets of beadboard. A table saw would be ideal for making these long, straight cuts, but we didn't have one set up at the time.

The Kreg tool worked perfectly. The guide has a long ruler, and we used the gray adjustment clip see in picture below to set our desired width. Once the width is set, the guide makes it easy to make a long, straight cut.

Once all of our beadboard panels were attached to the wall, it was time to patch up all of the screw and nail holes. We used this wood filler and a painter's tool to fill in the holes. While we were at it, we also filled in any larger gaps that wouldn't be able to be filled by just caulk alone.

Once we had filled in everything with the wood filler, we used an orbital sander to smooth down the surface to make it nice and flat. That way after we paint, no one will be able to tell where the holes were. Measure the height in the corner from the top of the waiscoting base trim to the bottom of the waiscoting cap.

Cut Cove length: Make sure Cove pieces fit in corner. Apply adhesive on back of the Cove. Insure all nails are slightly below product surface. Using the touch up Fill Stick, fill over nail head and wipe excess away using a dry cloth. Your install is complete.

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