On top of that, I have one accessories which is very useful to avoid the connection to a 12 V supply with the somewhat fragile coaxial plug: It's a rail connected to the bottom, used instead of the battery pack! It was manufactured years ago by a local HAM. But today it should be possible to make it with a 3D-printer. Screw it on a stand and you have a solid solution for mobile use or in your shack. My rating? Four and a half stars! Picked one up at a ham feast non-working little over a year ago, sell did not know what was wrong other than is did work before it went into storage and a few years late, pulled out of storage and it would not work.
Found the internal battery dead, replaced it and it worked after rebuilding and charging up the battery pack. Documentation was found on the internet regarding issues with the Alum electrolytic capacitors causing problems with operation, so placed an order for the various values and spend an evening replacing them.
I place a comment on eHam forum of the part numbers I used so the information is available to others. I found the radio easy to work on with using good bright lighting, magnification and small tip in the soldering iron yes the small parts are hard to see and the eyes are not as good as they use to be.
The radio has a solid feel to it, and out weights several of my newer HT. It does not get as hot as the newer ones on long conversation, so that is a big plus for me. I get comments on how well it sound on the air and the receive audio is also strong and clear. Plan to use it to work some of the LEO birds soon, maybe even the space station, which should be fun.
Programming and storing the settings into memory is easy to do, all by hand, no computer software required. The one area I have to watch when programming is without knowing it, I have a couple of times placed the radio in cross band mode the manual for the CA explains this, whereas the C does not - I have seen both on the internet.
There is information on the internet to expand this to 20 per band, but I have not done it at this time and not sure that I will. Overall, a very good radio and will be put to good use right alongside my other ones. I got my from a friend but it was DOA. I have a cellphone screen protector on the screen.
I've bought my second C a few days ago and I'm very happy with it. My first is out of order, following a probable capacitors leaking that I will fix after doing the proposed procedure depicted by VK3KBC. On the other hand : - Positive of The coating of freq knob is still excellent; - Big and heavy regarding modern pocket transceivers but not the same use ; - Rubber antenna big in diameter and not that flexible. I have some of the Standard product C, C, C and I can definitly say that is high quality radios.
Owned it for 2 years and within that period it performed very nice. Hi All, I purchased this handheld new when they first became available in VK in the early 's and was immediately impressed with its quality and performance.
After 15 years, I am now even more impressed, especially considering how much use and abuse it has handled over the years and at how well the radio compares with modern units. I'd used the handheld on an almost daily basis for over 10 years without any issues at all. Due to other commitments, it was unused along with other Ham Radio gear for approximately 2 years during which the internal Lithium battery went flat.
A few years ago I replaced the battery and it's like new again. The radio has an aluminium alloy case similar to modern radios like the VX-7R and is almost mil-spec construction. It has separate volume and squelch dials for VHF and UHF, allowing each band to be set with different squelch thresholds and volume settings and it displays both the VHF and UHF frequencies on the screen simultaneously.
Pressing a control key and the band button will deselect a band resulting in only single band operation if required. This means that you can set a 2m frequency and a 70cm frequency and then TX on one whilst simultaneously receiving on the other. If you have an external speaker mike you can retransmit the RX audio, but by default, the audio received from one band is not re-transmitted to the other in manual dual band operation.
If you set the radio to Cross-Band Repeater mode, then it operates autonomously and will retransmit audio and activate PTT in both directions. Frequency input is directly via keypad and VFO and memories can be changed via the keypad arrows or the rotary encoder.
The keypad has continued to be problem free over the years, as have the rotary selector, PTT and Squelch Monitor buttons. It runs warm at 5W at high duty cycles, but doesn't run too hot. Receiver selectivity and sensitivity are both excellent on both bands. I have not experienced any intermod issues at all. It has Wide Band Receive and covers 'extra' bands. A Google search will provide the details. It also has all of the normal scan, lock, power save, and tone call functions found on other hand helds.
I tried the 40 memory hack but had a 'hiccup' which made offsets a bit difficult to program. I didn't pursue the issue and reset the unit back to the default 20 memories. There is also a software hack that allows the radio to operate wideband and outside of the Amateur Bands. A Google search will supply you with further information. Don't expect the sensitivity to be great outside of the ham bands if you choose to use this option, although the receiver can easily be stagger tuned to provide a decent coverage at the expense of some sensitivity.
After the extended feature set software code has been entered, the radio is capable of VCO locking across a wide range but will not go much past MHz on UHF even though it is possible to enter higher frequencies into the keypad. It is capable of being modified to operate to MHz but it requires surgery, good soldering tools and techniques and very steady hands. There are about 40 micro-miniature plated-through holes, 3 main PCB's and two VCO's with individual PCB's to contend with in the disassembly and one mistake or a static zap could render the radio useless.
Nevertheless, when done properly, the radio works well with a bit of front end and PA retuning. In my opinion, the effort is not worth the gain as you lose a fair bit of sensitivity as you broad tune it to cover the whole range. The extended feature set software code will "open up" the radio and also gives the radio numerous additional features which are quite useful.
M Mem scan MS. Considering that this functionality is now being offered on current radios, it's impressive to see that Standard's engineers foresaw the usefulness of this function when they designed the radio years ago. It also accepts external 6 - 16V DC input. External power only operates the radio; it does not charge the battery pack.
This is normally done via a socket on the battery pack itself. Battery packs are still available commercially, although I've repacked mine with mAh NiMh cells, which provides all day operation. Keep in mind that the mAh batteries are slightly larger than the original NiCad AA's, so you need to be conservative with solder to make them fit.
The standard charger that comes with the unit is almost useless since it takes approximately 14 hours to charge the original mAh battery pack. The trip voltage and charge currents for 'Fast' and 'Trickle' are set internally via trimpots. Fast charge takes approximately 4 hours and then the unit switches to trickle charge. Since the battery packs have their own charge socket, anything can be used to charge them so long as the charger has the appropriate current limit, sense and shutdown circuitry.
The radio is fitted with a standard BNC antenna socket which makes connecting external antennas a breeze. Whilst the original antenna works well, it is a short and solid antenna which can place a bit of stress on the BNC socket and chassis if the radio is worn on a belt often.
I've found the Maldol MDL dual band flexible whip antenna works perfectly with this radio and removes any likelihood of stress damage, along with making it much more unobtrusive and comfortable when worn on the belt.
One thing to note is that the radio's CTCSS unit was an optional accessory and they are almost impossible to find now. If your C isn't fitted with a CTCSS module, then that's a real drawback in my opinion, since there's very little room inside to retrofit anything but the smallest SMD tone board and it wouldn't be software configurable like the original.
Index of this page story and history of and about the C and C repair and services for the C and C technical details tools frequently asked questions downloads, brochures, manual In the following lines you can read a lot of usefull informations and tipps about your STANDARD C and C We even try to collect as much downloads as we can to provide you a grwoing pool of knowledge.
Price for a new one was about Euro DM in They were seperating the Cseries and were the first real Bi-Bander on this time. That means this portable is able to receive two frequencies on the same time. Or you can transmit on the first and receive on the other band simultaneously. Bi-Bander have several advantages.
By reducing the shift to 5kHz you can balance the Doppler-shift. Many Hams sold their C or C or even threw it away one ham told me on hamradio he did this some years ago Nearly two decades later time has changed and more and more cheap and low quality ham radio portables are being produced. High quality portables are hardly to get.
Even established HAM-Brands sell more and more low-budget portables. In addition modern portables are getting more and more smaller and there are barely portables for hamradio with good feelable and large keys. Of course they now have hundreds of features, software-controll and several menues.
Many OMs crave for bigger portables and want for high-quality with easy usability and larger keys. After a decrease of price for a used C and C from Euro in down to 50Euro in the price began to rise. We support this trend, because reapirs and services for used portables is environment protection and conservation of history. That's why we take care on them.
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