A strap wrench can also be used, indeed with some of the stainless steel seal holders we manufacture we have to use a strap because they have no slots for the special tool to save costs. Because of the good tolerances of the threaded section, the job can easily be done. Fork seals are best removed and fitted with the special tools, but the job can be done with care using a socket.
BSA also mention a top fork nut spanner, part no. Later type Bantam, A65 and Rocket 3 Mk1 forks have a different seal holder with two holes externally and these seal holders should be removed with tool no.
The seal holders still have slots in them, but half-round ones this time to accommodate the punch to punch out the old seals. Probably the worst forks, for wear, but the easiest to work on. Because of the open to all weathers stanchions and no gaiters, the chrome stanchions wore badly and also allowed dirt, salt etc to rip the seals to pieces, frequently dispensing oil all over the bike.
One special tool here and probably the least expensive, , damper valve removal and fitting tool — basically a long rod with a tongue on it. Thankfully, practically all wearing parts are available for the BSA forks and with the A, B, and C models, most are interchangeable also with Ariel! Stanchions, bushes and seals are readily available at reasonable prices. Fork seal holders are now plentiful, although a few years ago they were scarce.
The chrome ones available are quite well made, but the chrome finish leaves much to be desired. We were the first on the market with stainless steel ones, because of this. Highly polished, they are indistinguishable from chrome and of course the more they are polished the brighter they become and they don't rust! Other companies have also made stainless. Ours at the moment are in short supply because of the high cost of the stainless bar needed to manufacture the threaded section.
Later type seal holders are, however, not so plentiful. To remove the fork legs from the yokes, after removing the front wheel and mudguard, often proves difficult, because of the number of years they have been in situ; some people use broom handles inserted down the stanchion after removal of the top nuts; a tool can be made up using an old top nut, but the use of tool PL91 as mentioned previously does this job much better.
Ignition System. Wiring Harness. Spark Plugs. Wiring Parts. Components Wiring Cable. Cable Parts. Handlebar Levers. Handlebar Parts. Twist Grips. Wheel Rims. Wheel Spokes. Wheel Bearings. Rear Sprockets. Wheel Building Welding Tyre Fitting. Frame Parts. Workshop Equipment. Reduced Price Parts. Control Parts. Brake Shoes Tyres. The wrench was also powder coated and built to last. I'm restoring a '74 TR and it allowed me to remove the fork seal holders effortlessly. I'm rebuilding my '70 Bonneville forks and this tool is a must have.
Makes the process super easy. Lowbrow was the only place I could find it Contact us - Wishlist Account. Why buy from Lowbrow?
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