Many seat models use a form of tongue in the front or rear. If the seat doesn't slide far enough forward or rearward as the case may be , it will not line up or latch properly. This is where you would want to apply a little lubricant to the rubber bumpers to allow them to slide easier while engaging the tongue FULLY.
A spray lubricant like WD works great for this. This will make it harder to slide into position until it breaks in a little. Sometimes it may be necessary to give the saddle a good forward or rearward "smack" with your hand to get the tongue to slide fully into the bracket. It is also possible that due to manufacturing tolerances from bike to bike, a slight bending of the tongue will make it fit your individual bike better. The tongue is made of a mild steel that will bend easily enough with an adjustable wrench clamped on it.
Very little bend is needed in most cases, so be careful not to overdo it! Remember, our basepan doesn't have the flex of the stock model for good reason by the way , so it makes getting things in position just a little more difficult. You may have to bump the seat forward with a smack of your hand or actually wiggle it as you slide it into position. The other mounting tabs or latch brackets will not line up if the seat isn't in the right position!
Likewise, every motorcycle is just a little bit different manufacturing tolerances. This is just a general overview of some tips regarding latches in general: If your saddle is not latching down, be sure to check the alignment of the striker over the latch catch. If they are not lined up correctly, they will not latch! Perhaps your saddle just needs to move a little bit forward or backward to align it.
Most of our bolt on brackets have some tolerances built into them also so you can make minor position adjustments as needed. Just a little bit can make a big difference! Please be patient, you'll only need to do this once. Often, the saddle will not latch because of the new rubber bumpers. As outlined above, the bumpers have not broken in yet so they will hold the saddle up a little and not allow the seat latch to engage.
Usually a good smack with your hand directly over the latch will engage the lock if everything is aligned properly. If this fails, you can add a flat washer or two as a shim between the latch and seat pan to allow the latch to reach a little deeper. As the rubber bumpers break in, you can remove the washers.
REAR TABS: In the case of saddles like our Gunfighter model mounted on a typical cruiser, you will secure the seat with a tongue in the front and a chrome tab in the rear. If the seat is positioned properly, the slotted hole in the tab will easily line up with the mounting point in your fender some of these seat models have an adjustable tab.
If the hole does not line up, then you should refer to the tips above about rubber bumpers, mounting tongues and saddle position. If the rear tab almost lines up, but the rear of the seat sits up off the fender, do NOT bend the tab down to secure the seat. This can result in scratches to your bike as the rear edge of the tab may contact your paint. This is indicative of a problem elsewhere. I want ADV Sponsors. My main microphone failed and I had to use go-pro audio.
The seat is the high version and I found it to have a lot of tailbone pressure. It alleviated my numb nuts but still left me sore at the end of everyday. My Russel on my last GSA was much more comfortable.
Also it wasn't a how to video. Just a segway of previous videos into my trip which isn't edited yet. Gadget00 likes this. It's also good to see the height of the tall seat when installed on the bike. Sure the editing could have been better, and you should probably break the packing segment out into a separate video, but not everyone's a professional YouTube reviewer. Ocho NA , mycirus and toolfooldan like this. Yeah buddy. Give it a few thousand miles and you will love it.
It does need to be broken in. I did 1k in one day on it and was able to walk the next day. Joined: May 2, Oddometer: 18 Location: Ohio.
0コメント